Essential Tackle vol. 2

So I would like to continue my list of essential tackle. The previous blog was about the MUST have tackle, which are intended to minimize the harm done to fish. This list is to help choose the basic tackle you need to catch carp. I mean, you really need to have a bedchair organizer and a gas-operated heater. But these aren't the tackle you start with.

1) Rods - usually you need many. I fish with 3 rods, but also have different rods for different uses. Don't buy the cheapest available if you have some money to spare. I use 3 lbs test curve 12' rods. It's a good allround choice, suiting light PVA-bag work and good casting capabilities. Choose semi-fast/fast action as it's yet another allround choice. Just make sure the rod has parabolic action. You want to have the thorough action reserve for playing the fish. You can get a good rod in the pricerange of 50-100 euros. These usually are good enough for several years to come. When considering the price, remember, it's a 12' rod. A quality one cannot be bought with 20 euros. According to my experience, there is just little difference in rods worth 170 euros and 500 euros. 

Here are my bite alarms, old rods, the reels that I use and the "swinger" type bite indicators.

2) Reels - match the number of the rods and yet again aim for the middle-priced models. I have used Okuma Longbows from 2007 and never had any problems with them. A product advert, yes. But it's just an example that nowadays you get quality stuff with medium prices. The size I have been using is 65, which is a bit too big. Now I am changing down to the Okuma Trio baitfeeder size 55, which holds 260 m of 0,35 mm monofilament line. The capacity for a carp reel should be around 200 m of 0,40 mm line. And most importantly, it should have a baitfeeder/baitrunner/freespool feature. The big pit -models are for advanced users and it should be considered only when the waters you are fishing demand long casts. But as a beginner, you shouldn't fish that kind of waters.

3) Line - you need to have your line flawless. The bottom is usually full of rocks and debris, so your line is in a constant stress. I use monofilament because I like the small stretch it gives (the hookhold is better that way). Also, I always run the mainline through my fingers while reeling in, so if I feel a nick on the line, I immediately cut it off. You won't have a broken line if your line is flawless when fighting the fish. My choice is 0,40 mm or 0,43 mm. It's a bit thick, but we have a lot of natural snags here in Finland. It's not like we are fishing in a gravel pit. Our lakes were formed after the last ice age, so it sets a few demands for the tackle.

4) End tackle - You need some end tackle in order to catch something. Well, there are as many rig types as there are carp in the world, so getting all the bits and pieces for all the set-ups will cost you more than your rods, reels and bait combined. You will be suprised that this is a fact acknowledged even by the tackle trade companies. The easiest and most commonly used rig is the bolt rig. I like it because even beginners can hook fish properly in the bottom lip. And why is that? It's because the rig does the hooking by itself. Get some safety lead clips, rubber sleeves, swivels and some hooklength material (I use Prologic Reptilian 25 lbs). Also buy some 70 gram and 90 gram flat weights for the bolt rig. You also need some hooks, designed for carp fishing. I use the Prologic C3 in sizes 6 and 4.

5) Bait - There IS a difference in catch rates between different bait. I consider being biased here (I am a part of Prologic/DD Bait Team for 2012), but I use DD Bait Original HNV range. I consider this generation of DD bait a lot better than the previous one. My catch rates went up like a rocket this year. And I can also say that not all the scents were working on every lake, but in overall that just tells the story of experimenting with different bait and scents. Now I have some bait in my baitbox, which I can trust 100% to catch me fish. One of the bait scents made the fish go crazy, catching on every night, including a double run. I cannot ignore it, the bait really matters. Of course, there are many good bait brands on the market, but my trust is now with the DD Bait.

These are some of the bait I used last year. I tend to keep some boilies ready for the spring sessions. I always store my boilies in room temperature.

6) Bite alarms - you need bite alarms. But I will write about them in my next blog...

In Bait I Trust

My bait bag photographed somewhere in the deep forests of Finland. I was a bit worried that a bear might get a scent of my candy-smelling bait. I was fishing really close to known bear spots.

There are many different perspectives into carp bait. Some people are radically enthusiastic about their (sponsored) bait, some people hate using commercial baits and tend to stick with the more natural choices of peas and liver pieces. The different views are so conflicting that bait wars are commonly fought on forums, etc. What I would love to see is a bait fight between two bait-sponsored carp anglers. Especially when the real carp pros could catch big carp with tiny rocks painted red!

I can definitely say that I am not a pro carp angler, as I need good bait to succeed. The early days of my carping.... well... I had some bad experiences with baits for their wrong texture and smell. When you combine the aroma of a dump, rotten fish plus a hint of garlic, you get the picture. There are bait that are so foul-smelling that it's just over the top. I mean I'm not a princess, as I have worked in sewage water facility, but some of the bait are just not meant for fish (or any living thing). There are some foul-smelling bait that catch, yes. But the foulness has different levels. It goes maybe like this:

1) Salmon fillet (fish caught 5 days ago)

2) Yesterday's cooked salmon fillet left overnight to the table

3) The cooked salmon fillet in biowaste bucket for two days

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5) The salmon fillet in the dump with battery acid, rotten rats, etc.

When your bait is on the foulness-scale 5, you really need to consider your bait again. Like some fishermen wiser than I say, the bait needs to smell enough to attract, but not too much to repel. You need to remember that carp have olfactory senses (smell) that are about 40 000 000 times more sensitive than ours. They probably can smell the bait so accurate, that they know what perfume your wife is using (If you still have a wife, carp anglers seem to lose theirs).

Well, the carp are also quite opportunistic in certain waters, and the smell of the bait isn't such an issue. But a lot of these opportunistic waters have also smaller fish (aka nuisance fish). The "nuisance fish" in Finland ins't the odd 10 lb tench (that would be a national record), but the hordes of roach, small bream and silver bream. They tend to peck the softer baits off the hook in about 15 minutes. And the medium-hard versions get mauled by vicious crayfish. The bait needs to handle punishment like nothing else.

Believe me, I've seen the evidence! Once I had an underwater camera next to my bait. It was like watching, well... some sort of a washing machine with fish going around, groundbait particles flowing in the water, which was getting murkier every minute because of the fish-induced limbo. I wouldn't put there a carp bait that was softer that a rock. So natural baits are an option in Finnish waters. But most of the time, a very bad option.

Most commonly the problem with the bait is that fish don't seem to care about eating it. Now after long time of experimenting, I have confidence in the bait I am using. When I get definite signs of fish on the swim, I always get them on the hook! And it's as much as I can hope for a bait!

A common carp I caught with natural bait (corn)