Bits and pieces

I had a rig-tying session to finish the year 2011. I reckon I could say a few words about that. Not the most interesting stuff ever, but considering, possibly one of the most important things for banking fish. You don't want to have unbalanced or poorly tied rigs when the going is hard. I am not a top-ace considering CARP rigs, but my years in match angling taught me a thing or two.

First, use tools to make EVEN quality. When tied 100% by hand you just don't get consistent results. If you do, you are a natural talent, but most of us mortals are not! So I have bought a fly tying bench to get the tying to another level, and yes, it helps. It's really important to get the line in just the right angle, just as you want it.

The fly tying bench that I use for carp fishing rigs. Don't mind the x-mas decorations in the background. It was Christmastime then :)

When you have your rigs in your rig pouch, etc. it's difficult to tell the hook size and the hook link material breaking strain. So what I do, is that I attach a small paper note into each pouch with the rig. I write the hook link materials name, breaking strain, the hook type and size. Also I write the tying date, so I know which rigs have to be discarded (I don't want to fish with a rig that's 10 years old). You also get better in the art of rig-tying. Consider your rigs 5-6 years ago... Not the stuff you would fish now?

So for this rig, I used Prologic XLNT Fluorocarbon 0,39mm, Prologic C1 hook size 6. This chod-rig was tied on 27.12.2011. It's so easy. And you couldn't tell these things just looking at the rig, could you?

Bite alarms

I ended my last blog with the promise of writing about bite alarms. Well, I can say something about them, but yet don't consider me as THE ultimate guide on bite alarms. I have had experience with a few different models, and discovered some evident pros and cons with bite alarms for different situations.

First, you should consider the need for electronic bite alarms. If you fish at daytime and use visual bite indicators, you can easily do without bite alarms. But most probably you end up with bad results, as carp are a nocturnal species by their nature. I reckon I have had 90% of my bites at nighttime.

So using electronic bite alarms is a must, if you want to fish efficiently. Remember - finnish lakes are big and the fish densities are relatively low. So you need to be efficient in order to catch a carp.

You can buy a alarm set without remote alarm system. But after a few sessions, you discover that you really need the remote alarm. Sometimes the conditions are really windy and the surroundings and your tent/bivvie will make a lot of noise that prevents you from hearing the beeping from the alarms. And what about beating rain... no hope for hearing the sounds of carp bites. Don't mess with the non-remote systems. It's just a waste of money. And yes, go for the WIRELESS remote alarm systems. The soundbox/wired versions are in my opinion, also a waste of time and money.

What are the most important functions in a wireless alarm system? Well, I'd start with good battery life. You don't want to go changing the batteries every other trip. Besides, the batteries are quite expensive. Bying a set of good batteries for the bite alarm system will cost you around 20 euros. And most importantly, you don't want to find your rod pod in a situation, where one reel is almost empty of line and the line is snagged somewhere really far away. And you never heard a sound because the battery was empty.

Some alarms advertise their capacity of wireless alarm reception as far as 400 m or 1000 m away. Seriously. Given the average conditions in natural terrain and the average condition of a carp angler, how much time would it take to reach the rod from 1000 m away? 800m track record for David Rudisha is 1 min 44 seconds. So I bet a time of around 5 minutes would be a good result. In that time a carp would have reached dozens of snags and emptied the spool. So anything above 100 m reception is more than enough.

I appreciate the sensitivity setting in bite alarms, because you don't want to be alarmed for every time a fish swims on to your line (line-bite). Volume adjustment is also very vital for the alarm and the receiver. A quiet lake is best to be kept quiet. If you use your 100 dB alarms all the time, people will not like you. Although here in Finland, it's more like keeping a low profile and not giving away you whereabouts on carp fishing spots. Again, gillnet fishing has accounted for too many carp deaths here in Finland.

I have been using the Prologic Polyphonic 4+1 bite alarm system for a few years now. It has been reliable, and I like the low battery warning system and the natural (polyphonic) sounds. I think a frog sound blends quite well into the natural soundprofile of a lake. So if you hear a quiet sound of a frog or a duck, look around, because I might be fishing nearby. I have really enjoyed using this alarm set. The low battery warning system is really nice. Although I can fish almost two seasons without changing the batteries.

My trusty Prologic Polyphonic Wireless alarm set. The remote unit is the one on left. The set here was originally 3+1, but i bought one separate alarm, so it's now 4+1.

My new bite alarm set is the Prologic WUSB 3+1 system. It's the first alarm system to use mp3-files. I mean, you can put ANY sound into the remote alarm to be used as the alarm sound. Quite nice. I have finally chosen a few songs for my next season to be used for my bite alarms. They are "Ice, Ice Baby" by Vanilla Ice, "Maggots in your catapult" by Sir Bob Nudd and ... well, you could propose a song that I could pick. So please comment and write your suggestion as my third bite alarm song for the season 2012.

So this is my new Prologic WUSB alarm set. It has three individual alarms and one remote, which uses mp3 files as alarm sounds. I haven't tested these ones in real carp action yet. There's the small thing called winter here in Finland, so no carp fishing until april/may. :)

Essential Tackle vol. 2

So I would like to continue my list of essential tackle. The previous blog was about the MUST have tackle, which are intended to minimize the harm done to fish. This list is to help choose the basic tackle you need to catch carp. I mean, you really need to have a bedchair organizer and a gas-operated heater. But these aren't the tackle you start with.

1) Rods - usually you need many. I fish with 3 rods, but also have different rods for different uses. Don't buy the cheapest available if you have some money to spare. I use 3 lbs test curve 12' rods. It's a good allround choice, suiting light PVA-bag work and good casting capabilities. Choose semi-fast/fast action as it's yet another allround choice. Just make sure the rod has parabolic action. You want to have the thorough action reserve for playing the fish. You can get a good rod in the pricerange of 50-100 euros. These usually are good enough for several years to come. When considering the price, remember, it's a 12' rod. A quality one cannot be bought with 20 euros. According to my experience, there is just little difference in rods worth 170 euros and 500 euros. 

Here are my bite alarms, old rods, the reels that I use and the "swinger" type bite indicators.

2) Reels - match the number of the rods and yet again aim for the middle-priced models. I have used Okuma Longbows from 2007 and never had any problems with them. A product advert, yes. But it's just an example that nowadays you get quality stuff with medium prices. The size I have been using is 65, which is a bit too big. Now I am changing down to the Okuma Trio baitfeeder size 55, which holds 260 m of 0,35 mm monofilament line. The capacity for a carp reel should be around 200 m of 0,40 mm line. And most importantly, it should have a baitfeeder/baitrunner/freespool feature. The big pit -models are for advanced users and it should be considered only when the waters you are fishing demand long casts. But as a beginner, you shouldn't fish that kind of waters.

3) Line - you need to have your line flawless. The bottom is usually full of rocks and debris, so your line is in a constant stress. I use monofilament because I like the small stretch it gives (the hookhold is better that way). Also, I always run the mainline through my fingers while reeling in, so if I feel a nick on the line, I immediately cut it off. You won't have a broken line if your line is flawless when fighting the fish. My choice is 0,40 mm or 0,43 mm. It's a bit thick, but we have a lot of natural snags here in Finland. It's not like we are fishing in a gravel pit. Our lakes were formed after the last ice age, so it sets a few demands for the tackle.

4) End tackle - You need some end tackle in order to catch something. Well, there are as many rig types as there are carp in the world, so getting all the bits and pieces for all the set-ups will cost you more than your rods, reels and bait combined. You will be suprised that this is a fact acknowledged even by the tackle trade companies. The easiest and most commonly used rig is the bolt rig. I like it because even beginners can hook fish properly in the bottom lip. And why is that? It's because the rig does the hooking by itself. Get some safety lead clips, rubber sleeves, swivels and some hooklength material (I use Prologic Reptilian 25 lbs). Also buy some 70 gram and 90 gram flat weights for the bolt rig. You also need some hooks, designed for carp fishing. I use the Prologic C3 in sizes 6 and 4.

5) Bait - There IS a difference in catch rates between different bait. I consider being biased here (I am a part of Prologic/DD Bait Team for 2012), but I use DD Bait Original HNV range. I consider this generation of DD bait a lot better than the previous one. My catch rates went up like a rocket this year. And I can also say that not all the scents were working on every lake, but in overall that just tells the story of experimenting with different bait and scents. Now I have some bait in my baitbox, which I can trust 100% to catch me fish. One of the bait scents made the fish go crazy, catching on every night, including a double run. I cannot ignore it, the bait really matters. Of course, there are many good bait brands on the market, but my trust is now with the DD Bait.

These are some of the bait I used last year. I tend to keep some boilies ready for the spring sessions. I always store my boilies in room temperature.

6) Bite alarms - you need bite alarms. But I will write about them in my next blog...

Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays!

Dear readers, the Christmas is here and I wish you a happy holiday season and a successful year 2012. May you have tight lines!

Some gift ideas for true anglers

Hi all!

Christmas / The holiday season is coming, and some of you might be wondering what to buy (for yourself, of course). A true angler appreciates soft packages, but here's a few ideas for the harder packages.

1) Martin Bowler - A Fish for All Seasons DVD+book. You can buy it on http://www.calmproductions.com/
2) Hugh Miles & Martin Bowler - Catching the Impossible DVD-series+book. Also from Calm Productions.
3) Medlar Press books - You can find real gems there. True angling literature with the right ethics. Just go to www.medlarpress.com and choose a book to your liking! For example, Chris Yates' "Casting at The Sun"... Pure classic.
4) Order the Waterlog magazine. Like I did. Completely useless what comes to enhancing your catches, but enjoyable reading by the bedside or the bank! http://www.waterlogmagazine.com/

Well, I can't say no more. That's what you need, and I think you will be happy with them. And by the way, this wasn't a paid commercial. I just really like to share something I have enjoyed.

Essential tackle vol. 1

My previous blog got a comment which underlined the difficulty of choosing the essential tackle for carp angling. I mean, as it is difficult enough for an advanced angler, I can imagine (and remember) the challenges a beginner faces. Well, I hope I can help a bit with these issues. In my earlier blog, I mentioned that fishing is always about the welfare of the fish, and on the second place, the welfare of the angler. Start buying your tackle also in that order. So here's a list of must haves and not so important tackle. I start with the must haves.

1) Good quality carp landing net (soft mesh, minimum. 42"). Don't use any other landing net models than carp nets! The sparse mesh in other models can twist and break carp fins. Plus, carp freak out when you try to fit them in undersized landing nets. This elongates the landing time, which in turn isn't good for the fish.

2) Unhooking mat. Don't get your carp flapping on the bare ground. It can have internal damage or get infections if it's mucus layer is damaged. Also, it's good to have the carp nice and clean for the photos. Use soft unhooking mats (padded ones) which are large enough.

3) Weigh sling. Use the ones designed for carp. The ones for predator fish are way too shallow and the straps can harm the carp. Use the ones which you can close from the both ends with a zip. You can carry the fish back to the water in the sling and revive it carefully.

4) Forceps and a disgorger for getting the hook off safe. Have them always ready and available.

5) A bucket(ful of water). Before getting the carp on the unhooking mat, pour some water on the mat. The mucus layer and the gills really have to be protected. You can also pour water on the carp already on the landing mat. Get the weigh sling also wet before putting the carp in it.

I will write my next blog on the other tackle needed. But I mean, in most places the items mentioned above are required by the rules. So I challenge everyone who's reading this blog and fishing, or planning to fish for carp, to get these essential fish welfare tackle ASAP.

As you can see, there's the pliers, a carp landing net, unhooking mat and a weigh sling... And don't lift the carp too high.  You DON'T want the carp falling down from 1,5 m... Keep the carp low.

Fishy Business

If something is not evolving, it's not going to grow into something better. I mean carp fishing is really fun and it has a mysterious touch to it, but looking how badly the over commercialization has impacted our lifestyle just gives me a headache. For instance, the UK based carp magazines are more like a 100-page adverts. Use this, buy that, not that (it's the last years model which is totally useless), go there, fish this way, etc. The most underlined feature is that a new product has given Ginormous results with carp, and this product is supplied by the anglers sponsored company (what a surprise!).

If we take a good look in the mirror and cut the BS-talking, there is very little under the sun in carp fishing. But the main question is: Is the commercial buzz advancing our lifestyle or eating it inside out? My opinion above was that it gives me an headache at least. Here in Finland it's not such a problem, as we don't have a market for carp tackle. But well, this problem with commercialization has brought some serious issues with it.

It wasn't a long time ago when I read about a group of carp anglers who caught ca. 700 carp in a period of few days. The anglers had statistics of how many 40 lbs how many 30 lbs they had caught etc. I mean I would have stopped fishing after landing about 20 fish. And it would have been over the top already. 

WE should adjust our fishing with respect of wildlife. Even if we start catching like crazy, we should consider for what reason are we fishing for. Is it that we want to spend time in the nature, catching fish? Is it for the outside demand for massive carp catches? Is it that we want to enjoy and experience the same thrill and the mystery as our ancestors? I mean tackle business will do just fine even without the massive carp catches and making every magazine an advert.

(PS. I tried to attach here a photo of my 400 carp catch, but I couldn't find the picture) :)

Old Tackle and Jinxed Tackle

I clearly remember the day I got my first bite alarms. It was the end of August 2007. There was nothing special about them, as I bought the cheapest models I could find. I wasn't a Money Man then (the situation remains the same even now!). Anyway, I also got my first rod pod (which was also the cheapest available). Yet I had them, and I would proceed being a successful carp angler. (NOTE: Success hasn't reached me yet)

Here are my trusty old  alarms. Reliable, yes. Pretty, no. Without remote alarm function, useless.

Putting up my new pod and alarms plus the swingers was a bit tricky. When you haven't seen it anywhere, nor you can ask your mates, you just have to assemble it like a small jigsaw puzzle. Looking back, it sounds really stupid having problems with things simple as that. But it was fun back then. Everything was SO new and exciting. Having a few years of action with these cheap alarms, I decided it was time to go for better ones.

Where am I aiming with this... Well, I think my newer alarm set (Prologic Polyphonic), which I bought after the old set, was jinxed! The old set had me my first carp, my PB carp, several good ones, nice bream catches (including a triple run!) and good memories in general. When I got my new alarm set, I was really happy. It looked nice, worked perfectly, but I caught zero fish with them... Nothing had changed in my tackle, only the alarms were different. My fishing mates caught carp, I blanked. Several times. The first carp I caught with this alarm set was from UK! I thought the curse had been broken. But when I returned to Finland, I realized the curse was for Finnish carp only! I remained on a blanking streak.

I reckon I had brought the misfortune on me for being a tackle tart. I think I could have managed with the old alarms, but really, can you have a 30 € alarm set with a rod set worth 600 €? This curse of jinxed alarm set was broken by the carp mentioned in my earlier blog 600 hours = one carp. It really took time to break the curse.

I think I have become a masochist. I bought a new alarm set. Already I am having problems with my new MP3-alarms (Prologic WUSB). I just can't find a good song for a carp run... :) Wagners "Ride of The Valkyries" could be the one... Or maybe "Carp Fishing on Valium"? :)