Marker work

It's been a month since I last wrote. It's been kinda busy, and I am waiting for the season to start. Meanwhile I could write a bit about marker work.

A fruit of a different kind.

Knowing the underwater features is a must, especially if you are fishing in unknown waters. Going around the lake and searching for the suitable swim can be an experience of a lifetime, so mobility is the key. The secret is: Telescopic rods. I mean I have been using a telescopic rod for marker work for a long time. No need to carry the two-piece rod through dense shrubberies. Just a short tele-rod with the marker float and the feature-finding lead already attached. A lot easier...

My Prologic C1 2,75 lbs telescopic rod. Serves nicely as a marker rod. Yeah, it's snow still on the ground...

Prebaiting is a crucial thing here as I mentioned in my earlier blog. Prebaiting needs to be somewhat accurate, so I always use a marker to pinpoint the prebaiting spot. I make the prebaiting trips usually just after work, so I have to be able to use the car normally. The telescopic marker rod can be easily fitted in the car trunk or the backseat. No need to reserve the front seat for the 2-pcs 12' rod...

Rig bits, pieces and boilies

Hi all again!

I wanted to write something about rig bits and pieces. Basically, most of what has been written about carp fishing rigs is just marketing work. What I learned from match fishing is that there are no big secrets out there. When someone invents a rig type and catches a carp or two with it, it's virtually in every carp magazine there is. In the meantime the basic bolt rig caught around 60 000 carp around Europe. It's not useless to consider your rigs in detail. Biggest differences are made in small details. That goes to all fishing. It's not about inventing something fancy, but to make small things right.

What my basic rig is: a Prologic C3 #4 hook, tied onto stiff reptilian 25 lbs hooklink material. The hooklink is cut to around 15-25 cm (I mean the ready rig is that long, remember to add some line for the knots). A multi bead is threaded into the line, and the end of the line is tied to a multi clip. This multi clip is then attached to Prologic Distance Leadclip Leader. Tie your mainline to the Leader and attach a lead (50-90 grams) onto the clip. Now you are ready to go carping in most situations. The only situations that this rig type is not good for are weedy bottoms and surface/middle water feeding fish.

My rig bits and pieces on a Prologic bivvie table. And yes, it's snow on the ground.  Luckily we are getting more and more each day.

The most important variable in carp fishing is not your rig. Don't go too fancy. You'll end up thinking about wrong things and waste your energy. Be in the right place when the carp feed, and you'll score with your rig.

Oh, about the boilies. I almost forgot. It is really funny to see the big differences in the UK and Europe carp angling scene. In the UK there has been a trend to fish with small boilies (10 mm or less!) and in France, a lot of good fish have been caught with boilies over 30 mm. The size difference is huge. So how would 8 mm boilies work here where we have huge stocks of nuisance fish? The answer is more than clear. It would be a nightmare to fish with small boilies, because the nuisance fish would always take the bait. So when reading articles about carp fishing, remember to keep in mind the following questions:

1) Is the bait suitable for the fish you are targeting? Nuisance fish problem?

2) Is the bait used in the article designed for heavily fished commercial ponds or big natural lakes?

3) Is there a critical difference in the climate or the water between the article and the lake you are fishing?

4) Is the article about just another "flinga"-paste to put on the boilie/pellet/etc? Is it more of an ad than a "I really use this"-type of an article.

You can come to see my bait bag anytime. You'll see DD Bait all the way. I have used some other brands as well, but the new HNV-series got my attention 100%.

Another Finnish carp going back to freedom.  With 8 mm boilies, I would have been harassed by 1-2 lbs bream patrolling the area. And remember, wild carp are cautious. A disturbance might cause them to loose appetite for many hours. You don't want to have too many nuisance fish on your hook. 

Rod pods, tripods etc. vol 1

Hi again! It's been a while, and I am pleased to see that I have been writing this blog through the hard winter. As you probably know, winter is really a winter up here in Finland. -28 degrees Celsius is not the optimal angling temperature. I tend to start my season in April-May, so it's still a long wait until then.

I would like to comment different types of setting the rods on the bank. I started with traditional pod type, which had very little adjustment options. I soon found out that it's no good in natural terrain. I always had to search available spots for my pod. Usually it was really hard. When you had flat terrain where to put the pod onto, it was overgrown with grass, etc. And if you didn't clear the area, the grass would sway in the wind and pull the line (which in turn had the alarms beeping all the time). The good side to this type of a pod is that you can transport it almost fully assembled! It's ready to go in seconds.

Traditional rod pod with very little options for adjustment. Good for man made angling pegs, very hard to use on natural terrain.

Of course there are more advanced types of traditional pods available. They come with extending legs, adjustable buzzer bars, etc. You should be able to use this type of a pod with ease in almost every situation.

So now a few words about tripods. For one good reason I have started using the "tripod" type of a pod. It's got three legs, and the rods can be tilted so that the tips can point into the water or up into the sky. The reason why I am using tripod is that with the rod tips pointed up, I can get the lines over the vegetation in the water. Because of this, no reeds are touching my line and causing constant beeping from my bite alarms. This way I get some sleep at night hoping that a carp would wake me.

Tripod - rod tips pointed up, no reeds or grass is touching my line. Even in windy conditions I wouldn't get false alarms from the swaying vegetation. In the picture is my previous pod - Prologic Tripod. Now I am using the Prologic "New green" Tripod.

Bits and pieces

I had a rig-tying session to finish the year 2011. I reckon I could say a few words about that. Not the most interesting stuff ever, but considering, possibly one of the most important things for banking fish. You don't want to have unbalanced or poorly tied rigs when the going is hard. I am not a top-ace considering CARP rigs, but my years in match angling taught me a thing or two.

First, use tools to make EVEN quality. When tied 100% by hand you just don't get consistent results. If you do, you are a natural talent, but most of us mortals are not! So I have bought a fly tying bench to get the tying to another level, and yes, it helps. It's really important to get the line in just the right angle, just as you want it.

The fly tying bench that I use for carp fishing rigs. Don't mind the x-mas decorations in the background. It was Christmastime then :)

When you have your rigs in your rig pouch, etc. it's difficult to tell the hook size and the hook link material breaking strain. So what I do, is that I attach a small paper note into each pouch with the rig. I write the hook link materials name, breaking strain, the hook type and size. Also I write the tying date, so I know which rigs have to be discarded (I don't want to fish with a rig that's 10 years old). You also get better in the art of rig-tying. Consider your rigs 5-6 years ago... Not the stuff you would fish now?

So for this rig, I used Prologic XLNT Fluorocarbon 0,39mm, Prologic C1 hook size 6. This chod-rig was tied on 27.12.2011. It's so easy. And you couldn't tell these things just looking at the rig, could you?

Bite alarms

I ended my last blog with the promise of writing about bite alarms. Well, I can say something about them, but yet don't consider me as THE ultimate guide on bite alarms. I have had experience with a few different models, and discovered some evident pros and cons with bite alarms for different situations.

First, you should consider the need for electronic bite alarms. If you fish at daytime and use visual bite indicators, you can easily do without bite alarms. But most probably you end up with bad results, as carp are a nocturnal species by their nature. I reckon I have had 90% of my bites at nighttime.

So using electronic bite alarms is a must, if you want to fish efficiently. Remember - finnish lakes are big and the fish densities are relatively low. So you need to be efficient in order to catch a carp.

You can buy a alarm set without remote alarm system. But after a few sessions, you discover that you really need the remote alarm. Sometimes the conditions are really windy and the surroundings and your tent/bivvie will make a lot of noise that prevents you from hearing the beeping from the alarms. And what about beating rain... no hope for hearing the sounds of carp bites. Don't mess with the non-remote systems. It's just a waste of money. And yes, go for the WIRELESS remote alarm systems. The soundbox/wired versions are in my opinion, also a waste of time and money.

What are the most important functions in a wireless alarm system? Well, I'd start with good battery life. You don't want to go changing the batteries every other trip. Besides, the batteries are quite expensive. Bying a set of good batteries for the bite alarm system will cost you around 20 euros. And most importantly, you don't want to find your rod pod in a situation, where one reel is almost empty of line and the line is snagged somewhere really far away. And you never heard a sound because the battery was empty.

Some alarms advertise their capacity of wireless alarm reception as far as 400 m or 1000 m away. Seriously. Given the average conditions in natural terrain and the average condition of a carp angler, how much time would it take to reach the rod from 1000 m away? 800m track record for David Rudisha is 1 min 44 seconds. So I bet a time of around 5 minutes would be a good result. In that time a carp would have reached dozens of snags and emptied the spool. So anything above 100 m reception is more than enough.

I appreciate the sensitivity setting in bite alarms, because you don't want to be alarmed for every time a fish swims on to your line (line-bite). Volume adjustment is also very vital for the alarm and the receiver. A quiet lake is best to be kept quiet. If you use your 100 dB alarms all the time, people will not like you. Although here in Finland, it's more like keeping a low profile and not giving away you whereabouts on carp fishing spots. Again, gillnet fishing has accounted for too many carp deaths here in Finland.

I have been using the Prologic Polyphonic 4+1 bite alarm system for a few years now. It has been reliable, and I like the low battery warning system and the natural (polyphonic) sounds. I think a frog sound blends quite well into the natural soundprofile of a lake. So if you hear a quiet sound of a frog or a duck, look around, because I might be fishing nearby. I have really enjoyed using this alarm set. The low battery warning system is really nice. Although I can fish almost two seasons without changing the batteries.

My trusty Prologic Polyphonic Wireless alarm set. The remote unit is the one on left. The set here was originally 3+1, but i bought one separate alarm, so it's now 4+1.

My new bite alarm set is the Prologic WUSB 3+1 system. It's the first alarm system to use mp3-files. I mean, you can put ANY sound into the remote alarm to be used as the alarm sound. Quite nice. I have finally chosen a few songs for my next season to be used for my bite alarms. They are "Ice, Ice Baby" by Vanilla Ice, "Maggots in your catapult" by Sir Bob Nudd and ... well, you could propose a song that I could pick. So please comment and write your suggestion as my third bite alarm song for the season 2012.

So this is my new Prologic WUSB alarm set. It has three individual alarms and one remote, which uses mp3 files as alarm sounds. I haven't tested these ones in real carp action yet. There's the small thing called winter here in Finland, so no carp fishing until april/may. :)

Essential Tackle vol. 2

So I would like to continue my list of essential tackle. The previous blog was about the MUST have tackle, which are intended to minimize the harm done to fish. This list is to help choose the basic tackle you need to catch carp. I mean, you really need to have a bedchair organizer and a gas-operated heater. But these aren't the tackle you start with.

1) Rods - usually you need many. I fish with 3 rods, but also have different rods for different uses. Don't buy the cheapest available if you have some money to spare. I use 3 lbs test curve 12' rods. It's a good allround choice, suiting light PVA-bag work and good casting capabilities. Choose semi-fast/fast action as it's yet another allround choice. Just make sure the rod has parabolic action. You want to have the thorough action reserve for playing the fish. You can get a good rod in the pricerange of 50-100 euros. These usually are good enough for several years to come. When considering the price, remember, it's a 12' rod. A quality one cannot be bought with 20 euros. According to my experience, there is just little difference in rods worth 170 euros and 500 euros. 

Here are my bite alarms, old rods, the reels that I use and the "swinger" type bite indicators.

2) Reels - match the number of the rods and yet again aim for the middle-priced models. I have used Okuma Longbows from 2007 and never had any problems with them. A product advert, yes. But it's just an example that nowadays you get quality stuff with medium prices. The size I have been using is 65, which is a bit too big. Now I am changing down to the Okuma Trio baitfeeder size 55, which holds 260 m of 0,35 mm monofilament line. The capacity for a carp reel should be around 200 m of 0,40 mm line. And most importantly, it should have a baitfeeder/baitrunner/freespool feature. The big pit -models are for advanced users and it should be considered only when the waters you are fishing demand long casts. But as a beginner, you shouldn't fish that kind of waters.

3) Line - you need to have your line flawless. The bottom is usually full of rocks and debris, so your line is in a constant stress. I use monofilament because I like the small stretch it gives (the hookhold is better that way). Also, I always run the mainline through my fingers while reeling in, so if I feel a nick on the line, I immediately cut it off. You won't have a broken line if your line is flawless when fighting the fish. My choice is 0,40 mm or 0,43 mm. It's a bit thick, but we have a lot of natural snags here in Finland. It's not like we are fishing in a gravel pit. Our lakes were formed after the last ice age, so it sets a few demands for the tackle.

4) End tackle - You need some end tackle in order to catch something. Well, there are as many rig types as there are carp in the world, so getting all the bits and pieces for all the set-ups will cost you more than your rods, reels and bait combined. You will be suprised that this is a fact acknowledged even by the tackle trade companies. The easiest and most commonly used rig is the bolt rig. I like it because even beginners can hook fish properly in the bottom lip. And why is that? It's because the rig does the hooking by itself. Get some safety lead clips, rubber sleeves, swivels and some hooklength material (I use Prologic Reptilian 25 lbs). Also buy some 70 gram and 90 gram flat weights for the bolt rig. You also need some hooks, designed for carp fishing. I use the Prologic C3 in sizes 6 and 4.

5) Bait - There IS a difference in catch rates between different bait. I consider being biased here (I am a part of Prologic/DD Bait Team for 2012), but I use DD Bait Original HNV range. I consider this generation of DD bait a lot better than the previous one. My catch rates went up like a rocket this year. And I can also say that not all the scents were working on every lake, but in overall that just tells the story of experimenting with different bait and scents. Now I have some bait in my baitbox, which I can trust 100% to catch me fish. One of the bait scents made the fish go crazy, catching on every night, including a double run. I cannot ignore it, the bait really matters. Of course, there are many good bait brands on the market, but my trust is now with the DD Bait.

These are some of the bait I used last year. I tend to keep some boilies ready for the spring sessions. I always store my boilies in room temperature.

6) Bite alarms - you need bite alarms. But I will write about them in my next blog...

Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays!

Dear readers, the Christmas is here and I wish you a happy holiday season and a successful year 2012. May you have tight lines!

Some gift ideas for true anglers

Hi all!

Christmas / The holiday season is coming, and some of you might be wondering what to buy (for yourself, of course). A true angler appreciates soft packages, but here's a few ideas for the harder packages.

1) Martin Bowler - A Fish for All Seasons DVD+book. You can buy it on http://www.calmproductions.com/
2) Hugh Miles & Martin Bowler - Catching the Impossible DVD-series+book. Also from Calm Productions.
3) Medlar Press books - You can find real gems there. True angling literature with the right ethics. Just go to www.medlarpress.com and choose a book to your liking! For example, Chris Yates' "Casting at The Sun"... Pure classic.
4) Order the Waterlog magazine. Like I did. Completely useless what comes to enhancing your catches, but enjoyable reading by the bedside or the bank! http://www.waterlogmagazine.com/

Well, I can't say no more. That's what you need, and I think you will be happy with them. And by the way, this wasn't a paid commercial. I just really like to share something I have enjoyed.