Essential Tackle vol. 2

So I would like to continue my list of essential tackle. The previous blog was about the MUST have tackle, which are intended to minimize the harm done to fish. This list is to help choose the basic tackle you need to catch carp. I mean, you really need to have a bedchair organizer and a gas-operated heater. But these aren't the tackle you start with.

1) Rods - usually you need many. I fish with 3 rods, but also have different rods for different uses. Don't buy the cheapest available if you have some money to spare. I use 3 lbs test curve 12' rods. It's a good allround choice, suiting light PVA-bag work and good casting capabilities. Choose semi-fast/fast action as it's yet another allround choice. Just make sure the rod has parabolic action. You want to have the thorough action reserve for playing the fish. You can get a good rod in the pricerange of 50-100 euros. These usually are good enough for several years to come. When considering the price, remember, it's a 12' rod. A quality one cannot be bought with 20 euros. According to my experience, there is just little difference in rods worth 170 euros and 500 euros. 

Here are my bite alarms, old rods, the reels that I use and the "swinger" type bite indicators.

2) Reels - match the number of the rods and yet again aim for the middle-priced models. I have used Okuma Longbows from 2007 and never had any problems with them. A product advert, yes. But it's just an example that nowadays you get quality stuff with medium prices. The size I have been using is 65, which is a bit too big. Now I am changing down to the Okuma Trio baitfeeder size 55, which holds 260 m of 0,35 mm monofilament line. The capacity for a carp reel should be around 200 m of 0,40 mm line. And most importantly, it should have a baitfeeder/baitrunner/freespool feature. The big pit -models are for advanced users and it should be considered only when the waters you are fishing demand long casts. But as a beginner, you shouldn't fish that kind of waters.

3) Line - you need to have your line flawless. The bottom is usually full of rocks and debris, so your line is in a constant stress. I use monofilament because I like the small stretch it gives (the hookhold is better that way). Also, I always run the mainline through my fingers while reeling in, so if I feel a nick on the line, I immediately cut it off. You won't have a broken line if your line is flawless when fighting the fish. My choice is 0,40 mm or 0,43 mm. It's a bit thick, but we have a lot of natural snags here in Finland. It's not like we are fishing in a gravel pit. Our lakes were formed after the last ice age, so it sets a few demands for the tackle.

4) End tackle - You need some end tackle in order to catch something. Well, there are as many rig types as there are carp in the world, so getting all the bits and pieces for all the set-ups will cost you more than your rods, reels and bait combined. You will be suprised that this is a fact acknowledged even by the tackle trade companies. The easiest and most commonly used rig is the bolt rig. I like it because even beginners can hook fish properly in the bottom lip. And why is that? It's because the rig does the hooking by itself. Get some safety lead clips, rubber sleeves, swivels and some hooklength material (I use Prologic Reptilian 25 lbs). Also buy some 70 gram and 90 gram flat weights for the bolt rig. You also need some hooks, designed for carp fishing. I use the Prologic C3 in sizes 6 and 4.

5) Bait - There IS a difference in catch rates between different bait. I consider being biased here (I am a part of Prologic/DD Bait Team for 2012), but I use DD Bait Original HNV range. I consider this generation of DD bait a lot better than the previous one. My catch rates went up like a rocket this year. And I can also say that not all the scents were working on every lake, but in overall that just tells the story of experimenting with different bait and scents. Now I have some bait in my baitbox, which I can trust 100% to catch me fish. One of the bait scents made the fish go crazy, catching on every night, including a double run. I cannot ignore it, the bait really matters. Of course, there are many good bait brands on the market, but my trust is now with the DD Bait.

These are some of the bait I used last year. I tend to keep some boilies ready for the spring sessions. I always store my boilies in room temperature.

6) Bite alarms - you need bite alarms. But I will write about them in my next blog...

Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays!

Dear readers, the Christmas is here and I wish you a happy holiday season and a successful year 2012. May you have tight lines!

Some gift ideas for true anglers

Hi all!

Christmas / The holiday season is coming, and some of you might be wondering what to buy (for yourself, of course). A true angler appreciates soft packages, but here's a few ideas for the harder packages.

1) Martin Bowler - A Fish for All Seasons DVD+book. You can buy it on http://www.calmproductions.com/
2) Hugh Miles & Martin Bowler - Catching the Impossible DVD-series+book. Also from Calm Productions.
3) Medlar Press books - You can find real gems there. True angling literature with the right ethics. Just go to www.medlarpress.com and choose a book to your liking! For example, Chris Yates' "Casting at The Sun"... Pure classic.
4) Order the Waterlog magazine. Like I did. Completely useless what comes to enhancing your catches, but enjoyable reading by the bedside or the bank! http://www.waterlogmagazine.com/

Well, I can't say no more. That's what you need, and I think you will be happy with them. And by the way, this wasn't a paid commercial. I just really like to share something I have enjoyed.

Essential tackle vol. 1

My previous blog got a comment which underlined the difficulty of choosing the essential tackle for carp angling. I mean, as it is difficult enough for an advanced angler, I can imagine (and remember) the challenges a beginner faces. Well, I hope I can help a bit with these issues. In my earlier blog, I mentioned that fishing is always about the welfare of the fish, and on the second place, the welfare of the angler. Start buying your tackle also in that order. So here's a list of must haves and not so important tackle. I start with the must haves.

1) Good quality carp landing net (soft mesh, minimum. 42"). Don't use any other landing net models than carp nets! The sparse mesh in other models can twist and break carp fins. Plus, carp freak out when you try to fit them in undersized landing nets. This elongates the landing time, which in turn isn't good for the fish.

2) Unhooking mat. Don't get your carp flapping on the bare ground. It can have internal damage or get infections if it's mucus layer is damaged. Also, it's good to have the carp nice and clean for the photos. Use soft unhooking mats (padded ones) which are large enough.

3) Weigh sling. Use the ones designed for carp. The ones for predator fish are way too shallow and the straps can harm the carp. Use the ones which you can close from the both ends with a zip. You can carry the fish back to the water in the sling and revive it carefully.

4) Forceps and a disgorger for getting the hook off safe. Have them always ready and available.

5) A bucket(ful of water). Before getting the carp on the unhooking mat, pour some water on the mat. The mucus layer and the gills really have to be protected. You can also pour water on the carp already on the landing mat. Get the weigh sling also wet before putting the carp in it.

I will write my next blog on the other tackle needed. But I mean, in most places the items mentioned above are required by the rules. So I challenge everyone who's reading this blog and fishing, or planning to fish for carp, to get these essential fish welfare tackle ASAP.

As you can see, there's the pliers, a carp landing net, unhooking mat and a weigh sling... And don't lift the carp too high.  You DON'T want the carp falling down from 1,5 m... Keep the carp low.